Backpacking South America – Peru: Cusco, Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes, Ollantaytambo (Days 5-12)

Backpacking South America – Peru: Cusco, Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes, Ollantaytambo

Days 5-12

CUSCO

We took a 24 hour bus ride to Cusco on a Cruz Del Sur bus. Cusco is a required stop to proceed to Machu Picchu and has an elevation of 11,500 feet. We took altitude sickness medicine and luckily only felt extra tired and a bit more out of breath when walking up hills. Their Plaza De Armas was beautiful and hosted many restaurants and shops catering to tourism, each insistently calling out for patronage to those passing by.

We found a grocery market for snacks and meal replacements, which was a welcome break from seeking out cheap but decent food at restaurants.

In Cusco, Tanner found his second best ever burger place and also ate his worst burger ever at another. You never know what you’re going to get!

AGUAS CALIENTES/MACHU PICCHU

We were ready to get out of the big cities and into nature so we took a colectivo (shared van) to Ollantaytambo, the closest town to Machu Picchu where cars and buses are allowed. From there, we took a train to Aguas Calientes, the town that hosts Machu Picchu.

When we booked our train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, it was the only remaining option and time that worked for us, so when we realized we were first class, we didn’t think much of it… until we saw a full menu once we sat down. It was a luxurious hour and a half that offered well-needed nourishment of delicious food and relaxation. We were served a welcome Pisco Sour, Peru’s national drink, plus our choice of wine, juice, coffee and tea, and a three-

course meal, all of which were delicious! The servers were so nice and the experience and surprise was a real treat!

We arrived in Aguas Calientes and walked with all our gear about twenty minutes to the Mariposa Municipal Campgrounds. We set up our camp, boiled some water for soup and tea, and met a couple that was traveling for six months from Belgium. He is an engineer and she a Psychiatric nurse, and both negotiated the time off. They said something funny to us: “If you’re traveling for three months, why not just travel for six?” We are officially little fish in a big pond of travelers!

We woke up at 3:45am to get ready for Machu Picchu. We planned to take the bus up there and hike back down, which we knew was a grueling and steep hour and a half down. We got in line for the bus around 4:45am and the first bus left at 5:30am.

We had purchased tickets to climb the Machu Picchu Mountain that overlooks the ruins, which started at 7am. This climb consisted of stairs after stairs (after stairs!). I thought we couldn’t take food, water or walking sticks into the ruins, but apparently I was wrong about the water and everyone else ignored the other rules! We were in need of water and food and made it about 15 minutes away from the Summit (which is 1.5-2 hours uphill one way). It was a beautiful day and a beautiful view overlooking the ruins!

After our descent from the mountain and a food and water break (we had checked our bags at the entrance), we walked around the ruins themselves. It is fascinating to attempt comprehending how the ruins were built. We felt like we were in a magical city cradled in the mountains with the sun highlighting our experience through the steady wave of clouds whispering above.

After we explored the ruins and were ready to leave, we were far too tired to do the steep 1.5 hour hike down and opted for the bus. With every cent we had remaining, we happily enjoyed the 20 minute bus ride down to our campsite, where we made soup and tea, relaxed and geared up for our return to Ollantaytambo

We went to the train station, hoping for an earlier train, but no luck. We ended up waiting around for four hours because there was only so much we could do with all of our stuff. We read our travel book and other books, waiting for our 7pm train. After trying to change trains for the two that left prior and inquiring about an upgrade to first class (it wasn’t much of a difference when we booked online), we were told the difference was double in price, so we easily but sadly declined.

As we finally boarded our train to Ollantaytambo, we put our luggage down and were scoping out our seats when the lady who checked our tickets asked if we would like to be upgraded to first class. Our heavy bags felt light as a feather when we grabbed them, elated by the surprise and the food and drink experience to follow. We still don’t know why we were upgraded, but we were beyond grateful!

OLLANTAYTAMBO

We arrived at 8:30pm in Ollantaytambo, which was a small enough town that we could easily navigate. We found a cheap hostel, Las Portadas, recommended by our Lonely Planet guide and, while we had our own room, it left much to be desired.

The next day we planned to do a hike up Pinkuylluna (pink-ooy-yoona) mountain that our Cusco hostel-mates recommended. Prior, we had a real breakfast at Heart’s Café and decided to check out other recommended hostels. We found one that was much nicer (including the kind hospitality of the manager/host) and was less than two US dollars more for both of us. We checked out at noon and played cards in the main square for an hour until our new check in was available. Even though it was a shared room, we ended up having the whole room to ourselves during our stay.

In the morning, we went to the Central Market and got some bread and cheese and began our trip up Pinkuylluna mountain, which indeed had incredible views of the city! We could see the entire town and Ollantaytambo ruins.

That night, we learned that the town of Ollantaytambo plays volleyball every evening, some games just for fun and some more competitive to “practice” for more serious games. Families and friends gather to cheer on the players as a street along the main plaza is blocked off to allow for a volleyball net and playing field boundary lines. They played for hours and had hot drinks and snacks available. It was so interesting to see a very native town by day playing street volleyball at night. We loved Ollantaytambo for it’s people, beauty and culture!

We departed Ollantaytambo by colectivo to get to Cusco and then back for a 22 hour bus ride to Lima.

LIMA

Now, back at our first hostel, we will rest for a couple days before heading off to trek Cordilleras Blancas in Huaraz. We have heard quite a buzz about Mancaro Beach in northern Peru, beyond Huaraz, and will likely stop there before heading into Ecuador.

Fun fact: there are dogs everywhere in these cities, even more so in the smaller towns! And not just mutts! We’ve seen huskies, labs, and even a German Shepard! The only place we’ve seen cats was at a park in Miraflores, which there must have been a hundred (the only place they must reside). The dogs are generally sweet and friendly, but in any given glace, you can easily see five or ten!